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If you’re reading this, you’re probably worried about your next-door neighbor, who, for all you know could be a drug-addled hardened criminal intent on stealing all your stuff, burning down your home, and kidnapping your dog; or you’re afraid of your psychotic ex who knows where you live and wants to return to your place do the exact same thing. You want to make sure you’re well-defended. You may have a gun at home, but you’re not going to be there all the time. In desperation, you may be tempted to “Home Alone” your house to make sure uninvited guests don’t leave unscathed.

This is stupid. Don’t booby trap your home.

While not explicitly illegal in federal law, laying booby traps around your house indicates an intent to cause harm, and if a home invader dies because of your expertly rigged shotgun trap, then you have committed murder. This would be especially true if you were nowhere near the trap when it went off, negating any self-defense claims. The courts will destroy you.

Instead of turning your home into a suburban Viet Cong bunker, focus instead on turning it into an unassailable castle. There are several legal things you can do to turn your home or apartment into a hardened target that can be done without too much strain on your wallet or your convenience.

Peepholes and Peephole Cameras

The antiquated peephole is no longer the best option for checking who’s at the door. You won’t be able to see much, and your view will likely be distorted. By replacing your traditional peephole with a Ring Peephole Camera, you’ll be able to see more of what’s going on outside your door, even from your own mobile device or PC. The 1080p full color HD camera wakes up whenever someone rings its integrated doorbell or triggers its motion sensor, and it comes with built-in night vision to detect anyone approaching in the darkness.

Reinforcing your door

A door bar, also known as a door jammer or door stopper, is a cheap, effective way to block any would-be intruders. Relying on physics instead of locks, a security bar is placed between your doorknob and the ground, creating a brace which makes the door impossible to open. Typically adjustable in length, they consist of a bar or rod that can be extended or retracted to fit different door widths.

High-quality door security bars are designed to be tamper-resistant. They may have features such as non-slip rubberized grips on both ends to ensure a secure fit and prevent damage to the floor and door.

Since they’re usually placed during the night when the homeowner is sleeping most door security bars are designed for quick and easy removal in case of an emergency or when you need to leave the house. You can simply release the pressure on the bar, retract it, and put it away.

Door security bars are particularly useful for reinforcing the security of doors that may have weaker locks or are located in high crime areas. They can also be packed in a bag and used in sketchy motels. While a door security bar can add an extra layer of protection, it's important to note that it's not a substitute for proper locks and other security measures. It's always a good idea to have a comprehensive security strategy that includes strong locks, proper lighting, and possibly even a security system to ensure your safety and the security of your property.

Reinforcing windows

A simple $12 piece of plastic is all you need to stop undesirables from sliding open your windows. As long as your window isn’t simply a large piece of glass big enough for a grown man to slip through, the Burglabar is a simple device which sticks to your windows to prevent them from being opened from the outside.

This 3x2x1.38 inch self-locking hinge can be put on any sliding door or window to keep home invaders out or keep toddlers or little children in, whether a window is pulled up or down or slid to the side. For older windows or shutters that open inwards, shutter locks reinforced a simple stick cut to the length of the window and placed on the base of the shutter should be good enough to prevent entry.

Lawn

If you have a second-floor window and all you can see out of it is a tree, the window is useless, and the tree needs to go. Not only will you be able to get the benefits of more vitamin D from sunlight, but you’ll also get a view of the exterior of your house, and you’ll be able to see anyone approaching from far away.

If you imagine your home as a castle, your upper floor windows are the home defense equivalent of watchtowers, and watching the approaches to your castle gate is a vital part of any defensive strategy. Bushes or shrubs in your lawn also provide places for people to hide, either if someone is fleeing from another residence onto your property or if someone is waiting to ambush you when you walk to your garage.

I know I mentioned not to booby trap your home earlier in this article, but consider planting thorny bushes and shrubs like barberries, blackberries, cacti, or crown of thorns plants to act as a sort of natural barbed wire fence and keep home intruders away while keeping your lawn looking nice. Houseplants are neither booby traps nor deadly weapons.

Safe Room/Panic Room

A safe room doesn’t necessarily have to be an armored vault with enough food and ammo to get you and your family through a siege. Growing up, the saferoom in my house was mom and dad’s room, because it was located at the end of a narrow hallway and only had one entrance and exit. The procedure was that in the event of an emergency, I would grab my gun, head to dad’s room, he’d grab his 12ga Armscor M30 and I’d grab my .22lr AK trainer and we’d both point it at the door while waiting for whoever or whatever was in the house to finish its business and get out.

The logic in choosing a defensible position in your home is that it may be more dangerous to go looking for the intruder, especially with a flashlight that announces your presence long before you step into a room. Once a hostile knows he’s likely to be compromised, he’ll either run, change his position to hide more effectively, or fight you. Moreover, getting your entire family in one room together ensures you will be able to defend them if you are the sole firearm owner, or preferably, fight together with them if all of you have your own personal firearms.

If the burglar in question takes any of your possessions, so be it. The primary purpose of home defense is to safeguard your life and the lives of your family. No amount of money or valuables is worth your life.

Personal Protection

In the event of a break-in, we must assume the intruder is armed and dangerous. When you’re awoken by the sound of breaking glass, you may want to don body armor before reaching for your weapon and flashlight to head for your saferoom.

BulletSafe VP3 vests are NIJ certified and rated to Level IIIA, purpose-built to stop most handgun rounds up to .44 magnum. The most common pistol round in the United States today is the 9mm, so a Level IIIA vest would be more than adequate protection for such a threat. For more potent threats such as intruders armed with AR-15s, a Level IV Tactical Plate Carrier Kit is preferred. Like BulletSafe’s VP3, the armor plate inserts in a tactical plate carrier kit are NIJ certified. Made of rigid ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene and a blend of aramid fibers, these Level IV plates are rated to stop rifle rounds up to .30-06 AP.

When it comes to preparing for home defense, it's crucial to prioritize your own safety and those of your loved ones when creating a secure environment in your home.

Investing in modern security measures like peephole cameras and door security bars can significantly enhance your home's defense capabilities, so can securing windows with cost-effective devices like the Burglabar. Additionally, strategic landscaping choices, like carefully placed thorny bushes and shrubs, can create a natural deterrent without resorting to dangerous traps.

Establishing a safe room or panic room within your home serves as a practical defense strategy. By gathering your family members in one fortified location, you can better safeguard their well-being while avoiding unnecessary confrontations with intruders. Lastly, equipping yourself with body armor, such as NIJ-certified Level IIIA vests or Level IV plate carriers, can offer vital protection against potential threats, allowing you to respond more confidently and effectively.

Ultimately, the key takeaway is that while safeguarding your property is important, prioritizing life and safety should always remain paramount. By adopting legal, thoughtful, and effective home defense strategies, you can create a secure haven that protects both your physical well-being and your peace of mind.

Green tip ammo, officially known as the 62gr M855 round, has long been associated with speculation about its ability to pierce body armor. However, that’s far from the truth, and the shooters of today would do well to disregard the hearsay and misconceptions that have unfairly tarnished its reputation as a round too dangerous for civilian use.

The M855 green tip features a steel tip over a tungsten-composite or lead core, encased in a full copper jacket. While it is true that this round can penetrate a steel helmet at 800 yards, it is essential to clarify that it is not classified as an armor-piercing round by the ATF.

Originally designed with the intention of enhanced penetration compared to standard FMJ rounds, the M855 green tip has been criticized as a "big bad body armor breaker." Yet, recent tests have shown that this reputation is not entirely warranted. In fact, it failed to penetrate a BulletSafe Level IV vest during rigorous testing, demonstrating its limitations against modern body armor.

For hunters, the green tip is unsuitable due to its lack of expansion, causing minimal tissue damage and limited blood loss in animals. Similarly, for self-defense purposes, its tendency to over penetrate makes it less than ideal for close-quarters encounters. Additionally, the 1-in-9 inch twist rate might reduce its performance in short-barreled weapons.

However, it is crucial to understand the original purpose behind the design of the M855 round. Invented in the 1970s and initially designated as the SS109, it was primarily focused on flight stability and penetration of light barriers, such as wood, glass, sheet metal, and heavy clothing. The development of body armor-penetrating rounds was not a priority at the time, as the first SAPI plates capable of stopping rifle fire only became available in the early 2000s.

Despite the green tip's limitations and lack of true armor-piercing capabilities, it has faced unwarranted fear and scrutiny. In 2015, the ATF attempted to reclassify the round as armor-piercing, sparking nationwide concern among gun owners. However, passionate responses from responsible firearm enthusiasts highlighted the inaccuracies of such claims and the potential infringement on Second Amendment rights, leading the ATF to withdraw their proposal.

Apart from the armor-piercing debate, there are other reasons why certain firing ranges prohibit the use of green tip ammo. It has been observed that prolonged use of this ammunition on steel targets can gradually degrade the steel, making it thinner with each hit. Additionally, the steel jacket of the M855 can produce sparks upon impact, posing a fire hazard.

If green tipped ammo is no good for piercing armor, can’t be shot at the range, and can’t be used for hunting, then what is it good for?

Long ranged shooting. That is, as long ranged as a 5.56x45mm can go. An M855 has impressive ballistics thanks to its steel core and is more accurate than a standard FMJ at ranges up to 800 yards. It also maintains supersonic flight until the same range, while ordinary FMJ rounds begin to lose supersonic velocity after around 650 yards of travel. A green tip’s round also tends to have less drop, giving it a flatter and thus more accurate trajectory.

While many state that green tip ammo is great because it’s military-issue, NATO militaries use the M855 ammo not only because of its impressive accuracy but because their hands are bound by the Hague convention on expanding ammo. The 1899 Hague Declaration stated:

“The Contracting Parties agree to abstain from the use of bullets which expand or flatten easily in the human body, such as bullets with a hard envelope which does not entirely cover the core or is pierced with incisions.”

This means, in essence, that the average civilian who is unbound by the articles of the Hague can purchase better, more destructive ammo for self-defense rather than rely on what the governments of NATO give to its soldiers.

While it is evident that green tip ammo is not the ultimate armor-piercing round as believed by some, it does find its niche in long-range shooting. With impressive ballistics and increased accuracy compared to standard FMJ rounds at extended ranges, it caters to the needs of precision shooters looking to engage targets up to 800 yards away.

In conclusion, the M855 green tip ammo's negative reputation as an illegal bullet is undeserved, as it is not officially classified as armor-piercing by the ATF. Its limitations in hunting, self-defense, and close-quarters scenarios are apparent, but its strengths lie in long-range target practice. By understanding the true capabilities of this ammunition, hunters and shooters can make informed decisions based on facts rather than misconceptions.

The versatility of MOLLE webbing allows those who wear plate carriers to put on a wide variety of attachments, allowing quick access to tools without having to fumble around looking for items in rucksacks, waist bags, or fanny packs. Tactical accessories include items ranging from essential to situational, and great care should be taken to ensure they are easy to reach. 

Mag pouches: used for storing your magazines. A good number of these should be kept on your plate carrier, as they will be essential in a firefight. However, keep in mind the old military adage that “pounds equal pain” and that an excessive number of magazines in an normally peaceful environment such as a shopping center in the wealthy part of town will be both unnecessary and bad for your back. However, carrying 12 magazines while pulling security for an international company operating in a middle eastern hotspot may be necessary, since engaging a large number of enemy combatants is a realistic possibility. 

Drop pouches: Used to catch empty magazines during tactical reloads, a drop pouch is a range accessory. There is no need to wear one on duty, since the precious seconds spent carefully tossing your empty magazine into your drop pouch can instead be spent engaging a threat. When performing tactical reloads in the real world, just drop your magazine. There’s a man trying to kill you on the other side, and he would like it very much if you turned your attention away from him just to toss away your empty mag for cleanliness’s sake. 

IFAK: Your individual first aid kit is a necessity, whether your kit is for security, law enforcement, or private contract work. The first aid kit should contain essentials such as bandages, disinfectant, cotton balls, scissors, and a tourniquet; essentially everything needed to stop the bleeding from a gunshot wound. The first aid kit is not a field surgeon’s bag, you are not a medic. It is meant to stop you or one other person from bleeding out. It does not necessarily need to have aspirin for headaches or tums for an upset stomach. The IFAK should be easily accessible and should not require the wearer to contort his or her arm in a position that would be impossible for an injured individual to pull off. 

Radio: Your radio should be easily accessible in such a way that you’d be able to queue it with one hand. Usually placed on the shoulder strap of your vest, it would be a bad idea to place your radio on your hop or any other body part that moves while you’re moving. 

Multitool: An optional, but sometimes necessary accessory. You’ll never know when you’ll need a screwdriver to tighten a loose bolt on your weapon or a knife to cut off the excess tail of a zip tie. The modern multitool also has scissors for cutting bandages, pliers for utility work, and a bottle opener. Try not to go anywhere without a knife of some sort. You’ll never know when you might need it. 

Hydration: This is a must. If you’re spending any good amount of time in the outdoors wearing what is essentially a weighted vest, a canteen pouch on your vest or a CamelBak on the back would be a great option. While many hydration packs come with backpack-type straps, some are outfitted with MOLLE webbing to be attached to the backs of a MOLLE-compatible tactical vest. 

Flashlight: If you work security, you might be required to patrol dark parking lots or dimly lit alleys. Flashlights are also needed for peering into corners or under vehicles. It’s also useful for signaling others and can work as a nonlethal self-defense tool in a pinch. A modern tactical flashlight is small enough to conceal in its own pocket or secured by a clip on a MOLLE strap. 

Pen and paper: Note-taking is essential when working any job that requires you to have attention to detail. Working a job that requires you to be out in the field with a rifle and armor is no exception. Police officers may need to jot down details of a crime as well as potential witnesses and suspects. License plates of offending vehicles and street maps may also need to be noted. 

Armor plates: Your tactical vest is little more than a front-facing backpack if it isn’t packed with armored plates. BulletSafe offers lightweight IIIA bulletproof panels for stopping pistol rounds up to .44 magnum as well as rigid, heavy duty Level IV plates capable of defeating rifle fire up to .30-06 AP. Regardless of which you choose, know that BulletSafe’s materials are NIJ certified, guaranteeing high quality protection. 

The short answer is “it depends.” The question itself requires a bit of nuance, as there are several things that qualify as a “bulletproof vest” and not all of them are rated to stop an AK-47. The question shouldn’t even be “can a bullet proof vest stop an AK-47.” Rather, it should be “what kind of vest can stop a 7.62x39?”

Currently, there are several firearms which use the AK-47’s 7.62x39mm round. While the most famous of these is the AK-47 itself, this Soviet round is also found in certain variants of the CZ 805 BREN, IWI Galil ACE, SKS, Robinson Armament XCR, and even AR platform rifles. If a particular vest can stop a round from a Galil, it’ll stop a round from an AK-47 just as well. 

The appended “x39” to the AK-47’s ammo designation is important to distinguish it from the 7.62x51mm NATO and the 7.62x54mm Russian rounds. Some sites erroneously state that the AK-47 shoots full-sized rifle cartridges like the 7.62x51mm NATO when in fact, the Soviet rifle uses 7.62x39mm Soviet ammo.

When it comes to the issue of protection, not every type of body armor is guaranteed to stop the 7.62x39. For example, the Level IIA and IIIA soft armor vests typically used by personal protection officers and police are normally only rated for pistol rounds, vulnerable to anything larger than a .44 magnum. 

For example, in 2022, a Las Vegas metropolitan police officer was killed while investigating a domestic violence incident. The suspect was using an AK pistol chambered in 7.62x39mm, which defeated his body armor and tragically ended his life. 

In the same way, the US military’s flak jacket – a Vietnam era relic that might pass as modern body armor in the developing world – was never meant to protect soldiers against direct enemy fire. This 10-pound vest, twice as heavy as a modern IIIA vest, could not even stop large caliber pistol rounds which modern soft armor can do with ease. Accurate fire from even a poorly maintained SKS would kill a Vietnam-era soldier in full kit. 

An extremely unsafe test of a bulletproof plate against an AK-47.

Only Level III and Level IV plates can stop rifle rounds of any kind. These plates are made of rigid materials like steel or ceramic materials blended with aramid fibers and bonded with resin. The resulting material is a hard but lightweight plate capable of defeating intermediate rifle rounds at Level III such as the 5.56x45mm, 7.62x39, and 7.62x51mm NATO, while Level IV plates are rated for larger caliber rounds such as the .30-06 AP, also known in the military as the M80. 

No longer issued flak vests, modern US military personnel are equipped with IBA and IOTV armor. These modern protective vests are built to be used together with Level III and Level IV plates, meaning they are resistant to most enemy small arms calibers .30-06 and below. 

Sergeant Joseph Morrissey, who deployed with the 82nd Airborne to Afghanistan in 2012, was on the receiving end of a five-round burst of AK-47 fire delivered from only 30 yards away. He was back on patron in just 48 hours, since his IBA was outfitted with life-saving plates of rigid armor. 

BulletSafe sells both soft IIIA vests for pistol caliber threat as well as top of the line Level IV plates for the highest levels of small arms protection. 

Some people who are new to body armor might be confused about the differences between all the different levels. Some might assume that as long as they’re wearing body armor of any kind, they should be safe against all types of bullets. Others assume that Level IIIA armor is more powerful than Level III armor because the added letter makes it seem that way. Both these assumptions are wrong.

Bulletproof protection levels are determined by the National Institute of Justice, which subjects vests to rigorous testing to determine their resistance. While any company can claim to make bulletproof materials, the NIJ will determine if the user will still be alive after being shot, by measuring the amount of back face deformation. A “dent” in a vest is acceptable, but too much deformation will punch deep into a victim’s chest cavity to the point of death. Just because a bullet is stopped does not mean the vest is a life saver.

In the world of bulletproof vests, the NIJ classifies armor according to type, beginning with Level IIA at the bare lowest bulletproof rating and ending with Level IV at its maximum strength. Here at BulletSafe, we don’t bother with the lighter Level IIA vests, which are rated to only stop small and medium caliber bullets like 9mm and .40 S&W. Our most popular product, the VP3, is rated to stop Level IIIA threats, while our Tactical Plate Carriers come with Level IV plates for maximum protection.

Level IIIA products like the VP3 are rated to stop most pistol caliber threats ranging from .22LR all the way up to .44 magnum, while Level IV products such as the plates in the BulletSafe Tactical Plate Carrier are hard armor capable of stopping rifle rounds from .223/5.56x45mm to .30-06 AP.

Now, there may be some confusion about Level IIIA and Level III. While both seem similar because of their nomenclature, the two armor types could not be more different. Level III armor, despite its name, is the more powerful of the two. Level III armor is much like Level IV both in terms of its ability to defeat rifle fire and its construction as a hard armor plate, meant to be worn as part of a plate carrier system.

Level IIIA, on the other hand, is almost always soft lightweight armor meant to stop pistol rounds. In some cases, helmets such as the MICH, ACH, and PASGT are rated at a IIIA level, but just like IIIA vests, they are not meant to resist rifle fire.

IIIA vests are usually used by law enforcement professionals, as 9mm and other pistol rounds are a more common threat than large caliber rifle rounds on the streets of a bad town. Level IIIA vests also weigh less than the heavy Level III SAPI plates used by United States military personnel in modern IOTV armor. Since our service personnel in tan and green face more considerable threats than the men and women in blue, they are expected to have better protection. The “bad guy” weapon of choice around the world is the AK-47, which would punch straight through a civilian cop’s IIIA vest, while a Level III plate would stop both the AK’s 7.62x39mm or a full sized 7.62x51mm round from an Iranian G3. Level IV armor, also found in military use as ESAPI armor, is rated to stop all rifle fire up to and including the .30-06 AP round, a large, hard-hitting round famous for being used in the .30 caliber M1919 machine gun and M1 Garand from World War 2.

What bulletproof topics would you like to read about in the future? Tell us in the comments below!